I arrived in Jiufen, Taiwan one February afternoon, wet, hungry, and desperate for a warm meal. It had been raining non-stop since that morning and my coat was almost soaked. It was still winter in Taiwan and I was in the northern part of the country where the weather was much colder.
My friends and I were exhausted after our unsuccessful trip to Keelung City that morning. As soon as we got off the bus, it started to rain heavily in the port city. We had planned to watch some cruise ships and explore interesting spots in the port area but because of the torrential rains, we sought refuge in a small cafe to enjoy some warm coffee and cake. Oh, and it was my birthday.
So when we decided to hop on another bus to go to Jiufen instead, we were hoping for a change in weather and a chance to salvage the day. Little did we know what awaited us in the teahouses and twisting alleyways of Jiufen.
I had a place in mind that I wanted to visit - a teahouse that was said to be the inspiration behind Hayao Miyazaki's Spirited Away. It's the movie that introduced me to Studio Ghibli films and it was always a dream of mine to visit the place.
But the fog was so thick that it enveloped the entire town giving Jiufen an almost magical and mysterious ambiance. We didn't know where to go. We couldn't speak Mandarin so we just decided to walk around and see where we'll end up.
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As we wandered through the narrow streets, we stumbled upon charming teahouses in hidden corners and twisting alleyways leading to secret, enchanting places. The winter air was biting cold, so we sought refuge in the cozy little shops selling hot food. Inside, the places were packed with people eager to warm their bellies with steaming bowls of soup and fragrant teas.
At one point, my friends and I found this bizarre shop that sold ceramic flutes shaped like different animals - owls, birds, ducks, and even frogs! The shop owner told us that she had handmade the flute by herself. It was a delightful discovery in our explorations of the quaint, old town. I ended up buying two ceramic bird flutes for my siblings.
Also read: Visiting a Meteor Garden Filming Location in Taiwan
As we ventured further, we found an area full of traditional red lanterns. It led us to food shops full of people too busy savoring their steaming hot soups. The red lanterns cast a warm shadow on cobblestone pathways that almost feel like we are stepping inside a film.
After a couple of hours of walking around this mountain town, we saw many people heading towards an area full of lights. It was almost night time and the lights were starting to glow brighter. Curious, we followed the crowd and were led to a viewing point of the teahouse I planned to visit!
The teahouse is called A-mei Teahouse. The entire area was packed with tourists and for us to get a good vantage point, we had to get a table at another teahouse in front of A-Mei. And because it was such a touristy area, their menu was so expensive. They also won't allow us to order a single tea jar to share. We had to order 3 tea jars to sit on a table with a good vantage point of A-Mei Teahouse.
We knew we were getting tourist-trapped but I wanted to take the picture so bad. Spirited Away was a film that very much shaped my childhood. It was also my birthday, so I didn't mind indulging in a little touristy fun. Good thing, my friends didn't mind either. Hah!
We only spent a little bit in Jiufen since we had a bus to catch up going back to Taipei. The cold winter night also made it a bit challenging to fully enjoy the outdoor sights. It was just too cold for my tropical sensibilities! I definitely want to return to warmer weather to experience everything it has to offer.
We took lots of pictures and said goodbye. We climbed up the hill towards the bus stop and while waiting, we took some time to look back at the town. From there, we could see the entire town below us, illuminated by the warm glow of the streetlights and the flickering lights of the teahouses and shops. It was a breathtaking sight and a perfect way to end my birthday adventure in Jiufen.
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