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Exploring Balay sa Agta Cave in Argao, Cebu

Exploring Balay sa Agta Cave in Argao, Cebu

It has been a while since I last visited Argao, a town in the southern part of Cebu island that holds a special place in my heart. As I prepared to revisit this time, I wanted to embark on an adventure I had yet to experience — caving, particularly in Balay sa Agta cave.

Although I visited the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park a few years ago, exploring its vast cave system by boat, I had never hiked inside a cave before. This adventure marked my first experience of cave hiking, making it all the more exciting.

This cave had been in my travel journal for months, so when I finally found the time to visit, I immediately contacted the Argao Tourism Office to begin my inquiries. They recommended visiting the cave in the morning, ideally around 8 or 9 o'clock, as this is when the streams of sunlight are most beautifully visible at the center of Balay sa Agta cave.

Hike to the cave's entrance

You will need to hike for about 20 to 30 minutes along a steep and challenging trail to reach the cave's entrance. If you have a fear of heights, the path to Balay sa Agta can be quite daunting. According to our guide, the right side of the trail drops off into a cliff that is approximately 500 meters deep. It’s crucial to exercise caution while navigating this section. I read somewhere that a mountaineer once tripped and tragically lost their life on this treacherous trail. Yikes!


This is why it's essential to coordinate with the Argao Tourism Office if you're planning to go caving in Balay sa Agta. They will provide you with a local guide as well as the necessary gear, including straps, harnesses, headlamps, and hard hats. I strongly advise against going alone, as the trail can be quite dangerous.

Our guide, Kuya Nasser, provided us with a quick briefing at the entrance about what to expect, as well as dos and don’ts inside the cave. The hike to the dead end takes approximately one hour.

As soon as we turned on our headlamps and ventured into the darkness, a sudden chill of cold air greeted us. It was complete darkness! Within just five minutes, the light from the entrance was barely visible. Upon entering, I was hit by the unmistakable scent of bat guano—who needs air fresheners when you have nature's own aroma?

It was my first time caving, but I wasn’t intimidated by the idea. I’ve never had issues with dark, enclosed spaces, so the experience didn’t frighten me. However, I remained cautious with every step, as I have a tendency to stumble - A LOT. I suppose I can blame it on my wobbly legs!


The trail is also slippery due to the presence of water, so you'll need to rely on your headlamp to see where you’re stepping. Stalactites and stalagmites are prominently visible along the way, including one stalagmite that resembled a bao, or turtle.

About halfway through the hike, we reached the center of the cave, which featured an opening—our much-anticipated source of light!

At one point, we encountered a section on the left side of the cave where another pathway led upward. I was told that only experienced cavers and rock climbers were permitted to go there, as it required swimming to cross to the other side of the cave. No, thank you! The thought of swimming in the dark, uncertain of what awaited me on the other side, was a risk I wasn’t willing to take.

Balay sa Agta

At the end of the hike, we found a small opening in the cave that offered a glimpse of light from outside. Looking up, we saw a rock formation that was difficult to identify at first. Our guide instructed us to turn off our headlamps to better understand its shape. As we did so, we were enveloped in total darkness, except for the faint light from the small opening above. 

At that moment, we realized that the rock formation resembled a human figure holding a tobacco leaf. In Philippine mythology, this figure is believed to be the Agta known as Mangao, who was the husband of Maria Cacao. Maria Cacao, the mountain goddess associated with Mount Lantoy in Argao.

Important Info

  • To get to Argao, ride a bus bound for South (Bato-Oslob, Bato-Oslob via Liloan Port or Cebu-Dumaguete) at the Cebu South Bus Terminal. Inform the driver you will be stopping at the Argao bus stop.
  • Since going to Balay sa Agta cave requires a guide, you will need to schedule the tour with Argao Tourism. You may call them at 4858063. Their office location is just walking distance from the bus stop. It’s located near the St. Michael Archangel Church.
  • Wear hiking shoes or any closed shoes in general that are good for trekking.
  • Pack light. It’s best not to bring a big backpack to avoid tripping en route to the cave.
  • Bring extra clothes, slippers or shoes, and drinking water.
  • Bus fare from Cebu City to Argao cost around 100 pesos. The tour package costs 600 pesos inclusive of round trip transportation (habal-habal) from tourism office to the cave’s location, a guide, gears, entrance fee, permit and, snacks.

Also read: Langun Gobingob: Exploring the Philippines’ Largest Cave System

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